Dundas Rocks Rest Area – Free Camp
- Eyre Highway, near Norseman, WA 6443, Australia
Remote Outback Camping in the Heart of the Nullarbor
For travellers crossing the Nullarbor Plain, Koonalda Homestead Camping offers the chance to leave the Eyre Highway behind and spend a night in one of the most remote and atmospheric parts of South Australia. Located within the Nullarbor National Park, Wilderness Protection Area and Regional Reserve, Koonalda is a genuine back-to-basics campground surrounded by the vast, open landscapes for which the Nullarbor is famous. There are no powered sites, showers, shops or luxury facilities here – just an isolated campground, an historic homestead and an enormous night sky. Koonalda is particularly interesting for travellers who enjoy Australian outback history. Rather than simply stopping at one of the roadhouses along the Eyre Highway, a night here provides an opportunity to experience a very different side of the Nullarbor.
Koonalda Homestead is a fascinating reminder of the days when travelling across the Nullarbor was a considerably more difficult undertaking than it is today. Before the Eyre Highway was sealed, Koonalda became an important stopping point for travellers making the long journey across southern Australia. The old homestead and surrounding relics help tell the story of early road travel across this isolated part of the country. Today, the historic setting is one of the main attractions of camping at Koonalda. It is a place where the landscape, isolation and remains of an earlier era of Nullarbor travel combine to create a memorable overnight stop.
Camping at Koonalda is deliberately simple.
The campground consists of three unallocated camping areas with relatively flat surfaces, although there is little natural shade. Up to 12 vehicles can be accommodated across the camping areas.
Suitable for:
There is a toilet near the homestead, but otherwise facilities are very limited. There is no electricity, so campers need to be completely self-sufficient. Bring plenty of drinking water, food, fuel and emergency supplies. It is also sensible to carry basic vehicle recovery equipment and at least one reliable means of emergency communication when travelling through remote areas.
Koonalda Homestead is reached from the Eyre Highway, with the campground approximately 14 km along an unsealed dirt access road. National Parks SA lists the campground as accessible by both 2WD and 4WD vehicles, but the access road can be rough and drivers should take care. Conditions on unsealed outback roads can change considerably following rain, heavy traffic or prolonged dry weather. Travellers towing caravans should drive according to the conditions and check for current park alerts before leaving the highway.
Yes. Koonalda should be booked before you arrive. Koonalda is currently the only camping option within the Nullarbor Wilderness Protection Area, making advance planning particularly important. Bookings can be made through the National Parks and Wildlife Service South Australia online booking system.
Fees are payable before entering the park and camping is subject to availability. Because national park camping fees can change, always confirm the current price when making your booking.
Campfires may be permitted at Koonalda, but seasonal fire restrictions apply. During periods of high fire danger, fires may be prohibited altogether. Always check current restrictions immediately before your visit. Even when fires are permitted, campers should bring their own appropriate firewood rather than collecting timber from the surrounding national park.
For travellers crossing the Nullarbor with a dog, a campground or roadhouse outside the national park will generally be a more suitable overnight option.
Do not rely on your mobile phone at Koonalda. National Parks SA advises there is no mobile phone coverage at the campground, and reception across much of the Nullarbor parks is extremely limited. This isolation is part of Koonalda’s appeal, but it also means travellers should prepare accordingly.
Koonalda is remote camping, so arrive prepared with sufficient:
Temperatures on the Nullarbor can vary significantly, and nights can become surprisingly cold.
The Koonalda area is internationally significant for its caves and Aboriginal cultural heritage. Visitors should be aware that Koonalda Cave is not a general tourist cave. National Parks SA advises that Murrawijinie Caves are the only caves within the Nullarbor parks accessible to the general public.
The Nullarbor contains one of the world’s most significant semi-arid karst landscapes, and many caves have important environmental, geological, archaeological and cultural values.
One important point for travellers exploring the Nullarbor is that camping along the Bunda Cliffs within the protected area is prohibited. The spectacular cliffs may look like an appealing place to spend the night, but the cliff edge is unstable and sections continually collapse into the Southern Ocean. Use designated lookouts for sightseeing and Koonalda for camping within the wilderness protection area.
The cooler months are generally the most comfortable time to explore the Nullarbor. Travelling between roughly May and October also coincides with the southern right whale season along the Great Australian Bight. Travellers can combine a stay at Koonalda with a visit to the Head of the Bight and designated Bunda Cliffs lookouts. Winter nights can be cold, however, so pack accordingly.
Mobile coverage should not be relied upon within the park.
Koonalda Homestead isn’t the place to stay if you’re looking for powered sites, hot showers and campground amenities. That’s precisely what makes it special. For self-sufficient travellers crossing the Nullarbor, Koonalda offers a rare opportunity to leave the highway behind and experience the enormous scale and silence of the Nullarbor after most travellers have continued on to the next roadhouse. Add the historic homestead, extraordinarily dark night skies and sense of isolation, and Koonalda becomes much more than simply somewhere to park for the night.
Matthew
The best-known stop on the SA side of the crossing, roughly midway along the treeless plain; powered/unpowered sites, free Wi-Fi, food and fuel. (Source: nullarborroadhouse.com.au)